Africa Trip - September 2010

South Africa - Botswana - Zambia


Botswana - Khwai Camp (9/13-15/2010)                                                        

 

Back to trip index

The Khwai area at the eastern border of the delta is outside of Moremi National Park. The area is one of the many "development trust" game reserves in Botswana run by local townspeople. The private game reserve area maintains camp areas that is rents to tour companies like the one we were part of. The rules for tracking animals are somewhat different such as allowing more offtrack driving as well as game driving in the evening after dark. We entered the area early in the afternoon and stopped under an Acacia tree to have a picnic lunch. We passed through the local village just before entering the reserve area. This was the first village we had seen since coming into the bush area. As with the Xakanaxa area, there was alot of water in the area and we saw large herds of Lechwe antelope in the many ponds in the area. We also observed a group of Warthogs wallowing in the mud.

After only about an hour of cruising the area looking for animals, we received a call that one of the vehicles had spotted a leopard in a tree. We immediately streaked over to join the other vehicles at the the site where we found a young male leopard resting in the shade of tree to avoid the afternoon sun. We spent the next two hours observing this young cat and were rewarded with opportunities to photograph him as he chewed on a baboon kill he had hidden in the bushes under the tree. The leopard's snack was interrupted when a group of elephants passed by and one them started sniffing around the tree. Afteh the elephants moved on and he had finished snacking he climbed up in the tree and went to sleep on a large branch as the late afternoon sun hit him in the face. One of the great features of being on a photo safari is that everyone including the guides were there to get the best shots and willing to spend as much time as it took to get them. We were all quite satisfied that night in camp as we madly downloaded leopard images.

On our morning game drive the next day we saw a number of different birds in the bush including a pair of large Wattled Cranes. However, one of the guides had heard that a group had spotted a pack of wild dogs hunting the evening before so we were all looking hard for them. What we did spot was a large group of White-backed Vultures in some trees. When we went to explore what had attracted these scavengers, we found the very fresh carcass of young male Kudu in the grass. Apparently the pack had feasted the night before and all that was left was the bones. Unfortunately we never saw any other sign of the dogs, but that was not surprising because after a kill they usually sink into the bush and sleep off the meal for a day or two. We left the vultures to finish up and spent a while watching a pair of African Fish Eagles in some courting behavior. In the afternoon we broke the routine by getting out of the vehicles to do a walk in the bush. As mentioned before, walking among the animals is completely different than being in the vehicles. Whereas we could drive right up to a herd of impala, when you're walking they will bolt once you get within 50 yards. We walked for about 45 minutes when we got a call that another leopard had been spotted near camp. We quickly backtracked to our vehicle and headed to the leopard. This one was a larger male and was sleeping in a tree. Other than moving his head once in while, the big cat just slept peacefully in the tree for all the time we watched him.

That night in camp we heard the roar of lions several times during the night. So first thing next morning we were off searching for them. We found them just as the sun was coming up and we stayed with them for a while. The guides had noticed that one of the females was lactating and suspected she had cubs hidden somewhere in the bush. We were hoping she might lead us to them, but the whole group must have made a kill the night before because they all just slept through the morning. This particular morning was also subject to problems with a couple of the vehicles. One of the vehicles had a flat early on and then another one got stuck in some mud right next to a couple of big elephants. It took a while for the elephants to move off so that we could get in and tow the vehicle out. Later in the afternoon we went back to the lions in the hope that we might find the suspected cubs, but we had no luck.

 


Khwai Development Trust camp

Picnic lunch on road to Khwai

Village of Khwai

Leopard resting in tree

Wild Dog Kudu kill

Walking safari

Changing a flat in the bush

Stuck in the mud

Breakfast campfire
 Slideshow